by Tyson - Northern Style Traditional Pho
I will never forget the day that I first discovered pho, once again a nod to my friend Davin who took me out for once again another hangover remedy about 20 years ago that was not a greasy egg based breakfast. Though skeptical, I ordered my first bowl at Pho Pasteur Saigon in Calgary – a restaurant I have continued to frequent OFTEN over the years, and one I hope survives this new reality of Covid-19 and the loss of business. This is a staple in the downtown of Calgary and a gem on the fringe – located at 207 1 Street SE, right next to the Bow River - they have survived once already through the Calgary floods, and I pray their spirits can survive the present significant hit that we are all sharing. Anyhow, I ordered the same thing then as I have continued to for the following near 20 years - #19 Large Sate Beef with a #27A 2x Spring Roll & extra sate on the side. The menus you must tick beside the number of what you want is why this note is of significance. I am lucky enough to be a familiar face to the family that works there they often know exactly what I want, when I pay – they often clarify how much takeout I will be leaving with as well, I do often take a box of goods home with me to Edmonton, but I am also blessed to have friends that will deliver the goods to me as well when they drive from the south – Thank you all!!
From this first bowl, obviously I have become obsessed. You will need to read about the entire history of pho as it’s a little too in depth to discuss through this blog – but the synopsis is this, Vietnams international dish, created in Northern Vietnam under colonization of the French, and then spread throughout the country and varied upon preference down to the southern tip. This recipe is among the ‘classic’ traditional variety that is the base of what pho is all about. Moving south you will see the thicker broths and the variety I love the absolute most – sate.
SUNDAY PHODAY
NORTHERN STYLE TRADITIONAL PHO
INGREDIENTS
for broth:
Beef Bones
Beef Shank
Beef Steak: rare thinly sliced
Medium to Large Yellow Onion
Black Cardamom Pod x 1
Cinnamon Sticks: ¼ or equivalent pieces
Star Anise x 1
Ginger: sliced lengthwise, enough to line the bottom of pot
Black Peppercorns Whole: 1 Tbsp
Sea Salt: 1 Tbsp
Rock Sugar x 4 pieces
Fish Sauce: 1 oz (more to taste)
Rice Noodles
INGREDIENTS
for garnish:
Thai Basil
Bean Sprouts
Green Onion: chopped
Red Onion: sliced
Lime Wedges
Cilantro: (I wish I could write this out of the recipe, but from my understanding it is quite pleasant to most people – not me)
Fresh Thai Chilis
Sriracha & Hoisin
DIRECTIONS:
Place the bones & shank into a large pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil and dump the first broth and scum out keeping the bones and shank in a colander preferably to make step 3 manageable.
While waiting for the first boil to happen on the bones & shank, take your whole onion and lengths of ginger and caramelize/char them with either a blow torch – or stove element. In the picture you will see I torched the onion and used the element for the ginger. Felicia our chef commented on how beautiful my torched onion looked and I’ll cherish that forever*.
Run cool water and rinse the bones and shank, then place on top of the ginger and onion that are lining the bottom of the pot – see photo reference**. Fill the pot with room temp water.
Place the aromatic ingredients into a muslin bag – crack the black cardamom pod prior to placing in the bag with a cracker, hammer, cast iron pot or whatever you have available – it does not have to be pretty but please don’t use your teeth.
Add the fish sauce, salt and sugar.
Bring the pot to a rolling boil at a low temperature, this is important. A heavy boil will disturb your ingredients and create a cloudy broth. If you have a cloudy broth you have failed and desecrated Vietnams national dish.
Let the broth boil gently on low to medium heat with the lid lightly suspended (see photo) for MINIMUM 4-5 hours adding water as necessary.
Remove the beef shank after about 3 hours into this process, otherwise it will become mush. Let the shank cool down at room temp and then place in the fridge as it will be easier to cut later when assembling those sweet ass bowls for serving.
Prepare the steak – trim any unnecessary fat then cut thin slices across the grain. Place your slices into a bowl and throw some cracked black pepper over the slices. Throw a splash of water and oil in and give it a mix to keep hydrated.
Rice Noodles – this is the most sensitive step for me personally. My best result have been from boiling a pot of water, take the pot off the heat when hitting boil – then placing noodles into the hot water and submerging for 3-5 minutes. At the 3 minute mark test a noodle for texture, you want ‘springy/chewy’. Once the desired texture is achieved, strain the noodles – I also often shock the noodle with cold water when it is at the desire texture, as they will continue to cook. Most of my favourite places to eat pho are insanely consistent with their noodle every single time, and it always impresses me especially the places that are banging out bowls of unimaginable volumes.
Take the shank out of the fridge and slice across the grain, place on a plate or bowl ready for assembly.
When you’re ready to serve – take a handful of noodles and place in a bowl, then arrange the flank medallions, beef shank, steak and green onion with sliced onion into bowls (see photo) – then ladle broth generously over the prepared mound. The rare steak will cook with the hot broth.
Serve with a side plate of garnish to add as preferred – (see photo)*** – bean sprouts, lime wedges, fresh Thai chilis, Thai basil & the heinous weed cilantro.
A finished picture fully plated would have properly ended this blog, however after a near 24 hr process – everything was forgotten once the broth was ladled into the bowl.. #NoRegerts
In closing, I could not express how amazing it is to have a pot of broth going throughout these times of isolation, I hope you enjoy!